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The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

The cold world of skimo & alpine climbing

Sunday, January 22, 2017

Reel Rock #11

I was lucky enough recently to preview all of the RR #11 Tour.  Some amazing climbing and even more amazing people profiled.  Well worth a look see,  A little digging on the Internet will give you  a number of options for viewing.   From a guy who use to really look forward to the Warren Miller ski films Real Rock Productions have taken over a good part of that yearly stoke.

Hard not to be inspired by the footage and the climbers involved no mater what part of the climbing world you are involved in.

Friday, January 13, 2017

Petzl's new tools?!

It only took one bad experience for me to want a ski specific axe.  Dropping into a gully late in the afternoon and then running into hard ice after the surface slide off  frankly scared me.  Watching everyone pull out their single aluminum tool while either on skis or a snow board as I began setting screws was a little more hair ball than I really appreciated.  Wouldn't have taken much on anyone's part that afternoon to really fook things up beyond repair. 

Later that week I went to Snells and bought two Sum'tec's   One for me and one for my long time ski partner.  I really, really like the tool.  Hammer is great for setting pro.  Pick and weight is good in hard ice conditions.  The same kind of ice that scares me as a skier.

A pair of them actually make a decent pair of alpine ice tools.  But using them sure made me want a pair of chopped  up and a little less technical Nomics even more.  Easy design transition if you have any imagination.   Take a chop saw to a Quark would do the trick as well.  Thankfully Petzl and Ueli Steck saved most of us the cash and trouble of finding a chop saw..

Two new tools from Petzl this year.  The new "Sum'tec" is just a toned down Nomic.  The lwt skimo axe, The Gully,  handy and lwt if you aren't a chuckle head like me and get yourself into trouble on occasion. 

The new Petzl tools should be available by Late July '17.

Ueli Steck's previous PROTOTYPE lwt technical tool below.  And still the version I would REALLY like to own.

The new Sum'tec: 480g or less in a 55cm in length.

The "Gully"... 280g, 45cm.

Steck ,  Kilian and a few others  have been playing with the proto-types
of both tools for awhile now. A pair of them weighs about the same  as one Quark.

Tuesday, December 13, 2016

Colin Haley on gear

"Second, anyone who tells you that gear doesn’t matter is clueless (at least in alpine climbing). I’m 100% certain that Rob and I were carrying less total mass of material than any other roped ascent of the route. My ice axes, crampons and helmet are all significantly lighter than they were just three years ago, and massively lighter than the ice axes, crampons and helmets that Steve and Rolo had in 2001. My helmet is the lightest one on the market. My ice axes are Petzl prototypes which are noticeably lighter than Quarks, which are already some of the lightest technical ice axes on the market. My crampons are steel in front and aluminum in back, and connected by dyneema cord. We cut the leg loops off of our harnesses. Our cams were the new BD ultralights. Our ice screws were the aluminum Petzl Laser Speed Lights. Our carabiners and slings were certainly way lighter than the lightest ones available in 2001. We climbed on a single 7.7mm rope, and didn’t bring a second one. I wore single boots on both ascents – the La Sportiva Batura, of which the current version is significantly lighter than the first version that came out in 2007. Yeah, we brought sleeping bags, they weighed 700g each. Yeah, we brought foam pads, but have you seen how light the NeoAir pads are? We had a Jetboil Sol, which is much lighter than the original Jetboil, which already was much lighter than whatever stove Steve and Rolo had in 2001 (probably a white gas stove)."

It is a good read:

Sunday, December 11, 2016